Got my safe, bolted it down to the foundation...now looking for a lighting solution. 

I picked up a magnetic wand light for the top shelf but should I use a 64 LED battery light bar or a battery powered LED light tape?

The top shelf is also bowing with the weight of the document safe.  Would a 2x4 strengthen it and also provide for a light bar... but I really like the LED tape lining the inside of the bottom rifle compartment.  Thoughts?

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Light wand, motion activated and portable.


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A couple aluminum L or U channel sections screwed to the bottom of the shelf would add rigidity without the bulk of a 2x4.

Also, what other accessories should I splurge on? 

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I put led tape in mine (staple gunned behind the rims) and then back lit it with a HUE led. Loud and proud!

I don’t think the light wand lasted a month before it got knocked off for the last time and developed behavior problems.

I installed an outlet in my Bighorn.  Plugged into it the golden rod humidity thing and a 4 ft LED light rope.  Ran the rope on the door side across the top and down the sides in an upside-down "U".  Spliced a large push switch that's activated by the door into the power cord for the light.  Basically a DIY version of some of the expensive light kits available,

You might also want a pistol rack and a door organizer.

I bought this rack because (1) I don't like the ones that have wires sliding into and out of the barrel, and (2) I can put gun socks on the pistols and store them trigger up or trigger down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QUIWBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this door hanger organizer from Dean Safe online, but Amazon carries it now:

https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Safe-Accessory-Panel-10585/dp/B004MNGY7O/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=liberty+safe+accessories&qid=1600377372&sr=8-2

I believe I had to add velcro to the straps because the mounting straps were designed for a slightly larger door.  The panel is almost the exact size of my door.  Recommend you measure the inside of your door.  It might be different than when I bought mine.  They do make a "17-18" model that's smaller, but I wanted to maximize storage.

You probably should have a humidity monitor as well.  instead of something just for humidity, I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDX0NR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HOWEVER.... Since that's not available, I did some searching.  Looks like this newer device called "The Puck" is taking its place on sites like Dean Safe:

https://www.amazon.com/LOCKDOWN-Monitoring-Temperature-Detection-Security/dp/B07YHXLPWP/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Lockdown+Puck&qid=1600378448&sr=8-3

Looks like there are a few differences I'm not sure I like:

(1) The Puck uses 4 AA batteries.  The eSafe version only need 2 AA batteries.
(2) The Puck must be mounted on the door (or door frame?).  My eSafe is mounted on the top-right wall area -- pretty much no restriction on where to mount it..
(3) The Puck requires a magnet to be mounted on the opposite part of the door opening next to the device so it can sense when the door opens and closes.  My eSafe uses light sensing to do that.  With the auto-on lighting I have installed, it always knows if it's opened or closed and texts and emails me when either occurs.

I suppose you could mount The Puck anywhere on the inside door frame, and place the magnet on the door itself.  Looks like it's just a magnetic switch inside the device, and the magnet trips the closed/opened alerts when the magnet is next to/away from The Puck.

The old model does come with an optional antenna for locations where the device can't reliably connect to your WiFi.  The Puck seems to not have that, likely because the 4 AA batteries provide more power for its signal.

ANY-Wayyyyyy .... In addition to the humidity and alert features of that device, you might also get a WiFi security cam trained on the safe.  That way, if you get an alert, you can bring up the camera and check on it remotely.  A camera would also give you a recording of who's messing with your gun safe, and maybe deter someone living there/visiting from attempting to open it if they know the camera is there.

Hope that helps. 

I have an alarm system that detects motion, door open and close, temp, and moisture.  Connects to your wifi so you can get alerts on your phone.

http://www.elertus.com/products/

I have an alarm system that detects motion, door open and close, temp, and moisture.  Connects to your wifi so you can get alerts on your phone.

http://www.elertus.com/products/

No longer available.  Read my previous post.

#NoFocus

       

Wow all of you guys are fancy. I use a rechargeable 64 led light from automotive.

The magnet is pretty strong. I usually leave it on the outside cause i use it for other things.

Btw nice setup phaz.

I too used l brackets on the inside to make my top shelf sturdier.

I also bought these magnetic hooks on amazon so i could hang random shit like certain gun parts in bags that i actually worth something. And it freed up the shelf so i could put more shit there.

No longer available.  Read my previous post.

#NoFocus

       

heads

I used a modified system of TWANGnBANG's lighting for my safe.  I used led light strip with a sticky back and stuck completely around the side wall, top and bottom.  I had the motion sensor but I didn't like it so i set it to stay on all the time and I connected the light to a battery pack with a built in on/off switch.  If you want I can research where i got the parts and post the links.

Sams just got some gun safe in stock in Honolulu and Pearl City for $499.99 30 Gun capacity sports afield. 

Looks like there are a few differences I'm not sure I like:

(1) The Puck uses 4 AA batteries.  The eSafe version only need 2 AA batteries.
(2) The Puck must be mounted on the door (or door frame?).  My eSafe is mounted on the top-right wall area -- pretty much no restriction on where to mount it..
(3) The Puck requires a magnet to be mounted on the opposite part of the door opening next to the device so it can sense when the door opens and closes.  My eSafe uses light sensing to do that.  With the auto-on lighting I have installed, it always knows if it's opened or closed and texts and emails me when either occurs.

I suppose you could mount The Puck anywhere on the inside door frame, and place the magnet on the door itself.  Looks like it's just a magnetic switch inside the device, and the magnet trips the closed/opened alerts when the magnet is next to/away from The Puck.

Damn.  But it makes sense that my liberty was glitchy a few weeks ago. I got an elert for about a week that said "lost connection".  Maybe they're switching servers.  I may have to get the puck eventually.

The light thing can be difficult in the begiining.  I didn't realize how sensitive it was.  Light was coming into the safe via a scew hole and caused my door open alert to trigger.  I wasn't home so I called 911.  Turns out it was the screw hole.  Since it was fairly new, I didn't realize that every time I get the door open alert, I also get the motion alert 1st due to the door moving 1st.  When the sensor tripped, there was no motion alert first.

So I covered it with tape and it hasn't had a false alarm since.  Also installed cameras I can monitor as an added layer of security.

While I was on the way home, HPD called saying they're not going to kick the door in because there are no signs of a force-able entry.  Windows and door were OK.  So they waited outside and I let them in and they cleared the apartment.  I felt super bad cause had about 8 respond.

Damn.  But it makes sense that my liberty was glitchy a few weeks ago. I got an elert for about a week that said "lost connection".  Maybe they're switching servers.  I may have to get the puck eventually.

The light thing can be difficult in the begiining.  I didn't realize how sensitive it was.  Light was coming into the safe via a scew hole and caused my door open alert to trigger.  I wasn't home so I called 911.  Turns out it was the screw hole.  Since it was fairly new, I didn't realize that every time I get the door open alert, I also get the motion alert 1st due to the door moving 1st.  When the sensor tripped, there was no motion alert first.

So I covered it with tape and it hasn't had a false alarm since.  Also installed cameras I can monitor as an added layer of security.

While I was on the way home, HPD called saying they're not going to kick the door in because there are no signs of a force-able entry.  Windows and door were OK.  So they waited outside and I let them in and they cleared the apartment.  I felt super bad cause had about 8 respond.

If you have a perimeter alarm, C&C of Honolulu requires a permit.  If they respond to repeated false alarms, they can (1) send you a bill for the time spent responding, (2) stop showing up for alarms, or (3) both.

Since you had to call HPD yourself to report the possible burglary, they probably would not think to report you for having an alarm on the safe. They are not being dispatched based on a direct alarm-generated call nor a monitoring service.  But, it only takes that one Cop to stir things up.

Something to consider if anyone is thinking about adding a "whole house" alarm sensor to their safe's door.  There are alarms like SimpliSafe that have wireless sensors which would work great for this application.

I saw a safe in the new costco ad booklet for this month
Bighorn for 549.00

I don't know if that's what you seek but it looks good and costs less than most guns nowadays
https://www.costco.com/bighorn-18.46-cu.-ft.-executive-safe.product.100571770.html

I tried to order 1 of the bighorn safe for $549, but shipping is additional $300 (customer Svs says these CAN NOT BE DELIVERED here). However, if I ordered the non advertised & full retail msrp they would "deliver"  curbside for additional 300 clams.

I installed an outlet in my Bighorn.  Plugged into it the golden rod humidity thing and a 4 ft LED light rope.  Ran the rope on the door side across the top and down the sides in an upside-down "U".  Spliced a large push switch that's activated by the door into the power cord for the light.  Basically a DIY version of some of the expensive light kits available,

You might also want a pistol rack and a door organizer.

I bought this rack because (1) I don't like the ones that have wires sliding into and out of the barrel, and (2) I can put gun socks on the pistols and store them trigger up or trigger down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QUIWBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this door hanger organizer from Dean Safe online, but Amazon carries it now:

https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Safe-Accessory-Panel-10585/dp/B004MNGY7O/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=liberty+safe+accessories&qid=1600377372&sr=8-2

I believe I had to add velcro to the straps because the mounting straps were designed for a slightly larger door.  The panel is almost the exact size of my door.  Recommend you measure the inside of your door.  It might be different than when I bought mine.  They do make a "17-18" model that's smaller, but I wanted to maximize storage.

You probably should have a humidity monitor as well.  instead of something just for humidity, I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDX0NR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HOWEVER.... Since that's not available, I did some searching.  Looks like this newer device called "The Puck" is taking its place on sites like Dean Safe:

https://www.amazon.com/LOCKDOWN-Monitoring-Temperature-Detection-Security/dp/B07YHXLPWP/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Lockdown+Puck&qid=1600378448&sr=8-3

Looks like there are a few differences I'm not sure I like:

(1) The Puck uses 4 AA batteries.  The eSafe version only need 2 AA batteries.
(2) The Puck must be mounted on the door (or door frame?).  My eSafe is mounted on the top-right wall area -- pretty much no restriction on where to mount it..
(3) The Puck requires a magnet to be mounted on the opposite part of the door opening next to the device so it can sense when the door opens and closes.  My eSafe uses light sensing to do that.  With the auto-on lighting I have installed, it always knows if it's opened or closed and texts and emails me when either occurs.

I suppose you could mount The Puck anywhere on the inside door frame, and place the magnet on the door itself.  Looks like it's just a magnetic switch inside the device, and the magnet trips the closed/opened alerts when the magnet is next to/away from The Puck.

The old model does come with an optional antenna for locations where the device can't reliably connect to your WiFi.  The Puck seems to not have that, likely because the 4 AA batteries provide more power for its signal.

ANY-Wayyyyyy .... In addition to the humidity and alert features of that device, you might also get a WiFi security cam trained on the safe.  That way, if you get an alert, you can bring up the camera and check on it remotely.  A camera would also give you a recording of who's messing with your gun safe, and maybe deter someone living there/visiting from attempting to open it if they know the camera is there.

Hope that helps.

Wow, thank you very much!  Very informative and interesting ideas.  How were you able to install an electrical outlet inside the safe?  Wouldn't any alterations void the warranty? 

A lot to digest.  I found those exterior magnetic racks and under the shelf baskets.  Those are smart space savers.

I ended up getting an Eva battery powered dehumidifier.  I haven't found a decent hydrometer.  Do those remote 2pc hydrometers work through the safe walls.  There's a sensor and a touchscreen display, has anyone used one of these?

Thanks again for the great information.

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I tried to order 1 of the bighorn safe for $549, but shipping is additional $300 (customer Svs says these CAN NOT BE DELIVERED here). However, if I ordered the non advertised & full retail msrp they would "deliver"  curbside for additional 300 clams.

Did you try to just order it online?  All in with tax, it came out to $575, delivered and set in the room and spot I wanted it in.  Those hydrologic hand carts are spiffy!

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Wow, thank you very much!  Very informative and interesting ideas.  How were you able to install an electrical outlet inside the safe?  Wouldn't any alterations void the warranty? 

A lot to digest.  I found those exterior magnetic racks and under the shelf baskets.  Those are smart space savers.

I ended up getting an Eva battery powered dehumidifier.  I haven't found a decent hydrometer.  Do those remote 2pc hydrometers work through the safe walls.  There's a sensor and a touchscreen display, has anyone used one of these?

Thanks again for the great information.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I got all the lighting at HOME DEPOT.  The receptacle is just a 2-outlet normal 110-115V outlet.  I installed it in a non-metallic shallow electrical outlet box with the standard plastic faceplate.

To provide power, I got a good quality 3-wire cord.  I may have had this lying around the shop, or I may have just gotten an extension cord and cut one end off.  There's a hole already drilled in the back or one side of the safe, so there's no problem with warranty.  Run the cord from the outside and connect it to the receptacle.  Then put the box, receptacle and faceplate together.  I used velcro stuck to the back of the box to attach it to the fuzzy carpet on the safe wall.  I've seen online suggestions that you might take a small piece of wood, cover it in a similar carpeting, and velcro that to the inside wall.  Now you have a place to drill holes and mount anything you want without drilling into the firewall/drywall.

I attached a rope light (can use led strips now -- not available when I did mine).  Ran it around the inside frame of the door with the power connection on the RIGHT  side of the door frame.  That's so I could install a switch.  If you open the safe and look inside, you'll see a stationary bolt on the bottom of the hinged side of the door,   When you close the door, the stationary bolts position themselves behind the door frame.  I use the bottom bolt to push the switch when the door closes.  The switch is just like a big refrigerator switch.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-10-Amp-Single-Pole-AC-DC-Push-Button-Door-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-SK/100180864

That switch mounts with velcro and fits between the closed door bolt and the right side of the safe.  Velcro is on the back and side of the switch box attached to the side and inside front of the door frame.  I may have had to add a shim to get the switch to make contact with the bolt -- long time ago.  The switch looks big, but it's pretty much hidden behind the frame.

I wired the power cord for the light to run through the switch, and then plugged it into the outlet with the dehumidifier rod.

It's a simple wiring exercise.  Only 2 wires in the switch.  Just take the power cord from the light, cut one of the wires (black or white normally), and connect the 2 halves to the switch leads.  Leave the other power wires alone.  Door closes, switch stops flow of power.  Door opens, power restored.  Doesn't take an electrician, but it does take some basic knowledge of how to safely connect electric wires.

I have one of the 2pc humidity and temperature units.  It works if you put the sensor unit on the top shelf inside the safe and set the remote display unit on top of the safe very close to the sensor.  One problem with this is you have to make a visual check to know if the humidity is high.  With the Puck and eLertus devices, they can use digital communications to notify you and send weekly status updates.  Also, you have to replace the batteries often if the signal is weak, because the device will drain the batteries trying to maintain a connection.  That means replacing batteries in both units.  More battery cost for that type than for the WiFi versions.

Let me know if you have more questions.  Lots of options, and much of it is preference and where the safe will be in relation to your normal foot traffic paths.  if it's in a room that sees little use, I'd say get the WiFi monitoring.  If you can see it as you go to the fridge, then the non WiFi might be okay.  I liked having the alerts hit my phone, since I had multiple people with access to the safe.  Good to know when that door opens and closes.   

I got all the lighting at HOME DEPOT.  The receptacle is just a 2-outlet normal 110-115V outlet.  I installed it in a non-metallic shallow electrical outlet box with the standard plastic faceplate.

To provide power, I got a good quality 3-wire cord.  I may have had this lying around the shop, or I may have just gotten an extension cord and cut one end off.  There's a hole already drilled in the back or one side of the safe, so there's no problem with warranty.  Run the cord from the outside and connect it to the receptacle.  Then put the box, receptacle and faceplate together.  I used velcro stuck to the back of the box to attach it to the fuzzy carpet on the safe wall.  I've seen online suggestions that you might take a small piece of wood, cover it in a similar carpeting, and velcro that to the inside wall.  Now you have a place to drill holes and mount anything you want without drilling into the firewall/drywall.

I attached a rope light (can use led strips now -- not available when I did mine).  Ran it around the inside frame of the door with the power connection on the RIGHT  side of the door frame.  That's so I could install a switch.  If you open the safe and look inside, you'll see a stationary bolt on the bottom of the hinged side of the door,   When you close the door, the stationary bolts position themselves behind the door frame.  I use the bottom bolt to push the switch when the door closes.  The switch is just like a big refrigerator switch.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-10-Amp-Single-Pole-AC-DC-Push-Button-Door-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-SK/100180864

That switch mounts with velcro and fits between the closed door bolt and the right side of the safe.  Velcro is on the back and side of the switch box attached to the side and inside front of the door frame.  I may have had to add a shim to get the switch to make contact with the bolt -- long time ago.  The switch looks big, but it's pretty much hidden behind the frame.

I wired the power cord for the light to run through the switch, and then plugged it into the outlet with the dehumidifier rod.

It's a simple wiring exercise.  Only 2 wires in the switch.  Just take the power cord from the light, cut one of the wires (black or white normally), and connect the 2 halves to the switch leads.  Leave the other power wires alone.  Door closes, switch stops flow of power.  Door opens, power restored.  Doesn't take an electrician, but it does take some basic knowledge of how to safely connect electric wires.

I have one of the 2pc humidity and temperature units.  It works if you put the sensor unit on the top shelf inside the safe and set the remote display unit on top of the safe very close to the sensor.  One problem with this is you have to make a visual check to know if the humidity is high.  With the Puck and eLertus devices, they can use digital communications to notify you and send weekly status updates.  Also, you have to replace the batteries often if the signal is weak, because the device will drain the batteries trying to maintain a connection.  That means replacing batteries in both units.  More battery cost for that type than for the WiFi versions.

Let me know if you have more questions.  Lots of options, and much of it is preference and where the safe will be in relation to your normal foot traffic paths.  if it's in a room that sees little use, I'd say get the WiFi monitoring.  If you can see it as you go to the fridge, then the non WiFi might be okay.  I liked having the alerts hit my phone, since I had multiple people with access to the safe.  Good to know when that door opens and closes.   

My bighorn doesn't have a hole in the back.

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My bighorn doesn't have a hole in the back.

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Look at the outside.  Might have to drill through the inside materials to open the hole completely.

https://www.costco.com/bighorn-18.46-cu.-ft.-executive-safe.product.100571770.html



Mine is drilled on the back, about 2-3 inches up from the bottom edge and about 2 inches from the left edge as you are viewing the safe from the front.  The 3/8" hole is barely big enough for a 3-wire 12 gauge electrical cord to pass through.

I don't remember if my safe had a plug in that pass-thru or not.  Could be it's covered with a rubber plug.