On average, how many test loads did you shoot in any given range day?  Number in your test groups?  3 or 5?  Other?

Two of my buddies who I will be testing with, one is the 3 round group "good nuff" and the other is "I need 5 round groups".  I'll eventually decide on my own method, as well as I am sure it will change, but interesting on what other people's methods are and reasonings why they follow that method.

The OCW method calls for multiple 3 round groups.

To do a proper ladder test, I think you would need at least 200 yards.

The Satterlee method could probably be done in 10 rounds.

If you’re new to reloading, it may take you some time before you can reliably count on your loads. All of the load development methods require that you start with extremely consistent components. This means that you better be dead on when you’re measuring powder. Some take it as far as measuring and weighing each piece of brass to ensure that there is consistent case dimensions and volume. Others will weigh and sort each projectile. Also, primers may become a factor if you’re chasing the ragged edge of your gun’s potential. This is why some people only shoot match primers. On the other hand, some people don’t think that any of these things matter (or the effects of the variations are marginal and immaterial).

In the end, you could really go down a rabbit hole when it comes to reloading for extreme accuracy.

Also keep in mind that there is also the shooter error that plays a factor. If you’re only capable of consistently shooting 1/2 inch groups, then how reliable is your data when you’re comparing group sizes? If you’re only capable of holding a 1 inch group, then is it worth the time to find a sub MOA load? Also a 10 mph full value wind will shift a 308 approximately 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Will that be enough to skew your data if you’re trying to read groups?


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The OCW method calls for multiple 3 round groups.

To do a proper ladder test, I think you would need at least 200 yards.

The Satterlee method could probably be done in 10 rounds.

If you’re new to reloading, it may take you some time before you can reliably count on your loads. All of the load development methods require that you start with extremely consistent components. This means that you better be dead on when you’re measuring powder. Some take it as far as measuring and weighing each piece of brass to ensure that there is consistent case dimensions and volume. Others will weigh and sort each projectile. Also, primers may become a factor if you’re chasing the ragged edge of your gun’s potential. This is why some people only shoot match primers. On the other hand, some people don’t think that any of these things matter (or the effects of the variations are marginal and immaterial).

In the end, you could really go down a rabbit hole when it comes to reloading for extreme accuracy.

Also keep in mind that there is also the shooter error that plays a factor. If you’re only capable of consistently shooting 1/2 inch groups, then how reliable is your data when you’re comparing group sizes? If you’re only capable of holding a 1 inch group, then is it worth the time to find a sub MOA load? Also a 10 mph full value wind will shift a 308 approximately 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Will that be enough to skew your data if you’re trying to read groups?


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Thanks for the info on the methods.  I was more looking for people's personal preference or practice.

New to reloading, but have guidance of many long time reloaders.  Will also be using their workshops, so will have "eyes on" the majority of the time, especially to start. 

Powder measure?  Speaking of rabbit hole, not that far.  Was talking with one of my buddies and we're not going to that uber accurate scale.  I am picking up some equipment to supplement one buddy's workshop and it's not that uber accurate level (and cost).  Same with other equipment, at least for now.  While most are "good stuff", not the uber accurate stuff.  That said, neither of us are after that gnats ass accuracy.  At least not at this time.  I don't think I will, but who knows.  I do know and shot with benchrest folks and what they consider as "minimally competitive", I'm like that's pretty darn good. 

Primers is another.  While I was able to find a brick locally, selection was pretty much whatever is available.  And I'm good with that. 

Understood on shooter capability.  With my stock Rem 700 and Hogue stock and Remington factory ammo, I was able to shoot that setup easily in the sub 1.0 moa average.  Group sizes was smaller with FGMM.  I'd have to check my notes.  Then again, while I'm not really after benchrest standards, always good to push things and see what is the "best I can get".  At least with the components I have on hand. 

Thanks for the info on the methods.  I was more looking for people's personal preference or practice.

New to reloading, but have guidance of many long time reloaders.  Will also be using their workshops, so will have "eyes on" the majority of the time, especially to start. 

Powder measure?  Speaking of rabbit hole, not that far.  Was talking with one of my buddies and we're not going to that uber accurate scale.  I am picking up some equipment to supplement one buddy's workshop and it's not that uber accurate level (and cost).  Same with other equipment, at least for now.  While most are "good stuff", not the uber accurate stuff.  That said, neither of us are after that gnats ass accuracy.  At least not at this time.  I don't think I will, but who knows.  I do know and shot with benchrest folks and what they consider as "minimally competitive", I'm like that's pretty darn good. 

Primers is another.  While I was able to find a brick locally, selection was pretty much whatever is available.  And I'm good with that. 

Understood on shooter capability.  With my stock Rem 700 and Hogue stock and Remington factory ammo, I was able to shoot that setup easily in the sub 1.0 moa average.  Group sizes was smaller with FGMM.  I'd have to check my notes.  Then again, while I'm not really after benchrest standards, always good to push things and see what is the "best I can get".  At least with the components I have on hand.

If that’s the case, I recommend chronographing the FGMM through your gun and simply replicating that load. If you need more accuracy, then make minor tweaks to that, but the FGMM should be your baseline


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SNIP

I've shot FGMM quite a bit with my current setup and idea is to start along those lines.  Likely start with Varget and 4064 first. 

Another powder from those listed above that I'm interested in is RL15. 

Will eventually get into loading for .223 Rem, but that's a story for another day. . .

If that’s the case, I recommend chronographing the FGMM through your gun and simply replicating that load. If you need more accuracy, then make minor tweaks to that, but the FGMM should be your baseline


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Roger dodger

Heard this was the "remake" of FGMM
Case: Federal GMM .308 fire formed and match prepped
Primer: Federal 210-GMM
Bullet: 168 grain SMK
Powder: 43.2 grains (?) or 43.5 grains (?) of IMR-4064
COL: 2.800"

46 grains of Varget and seated the 168 grain Match King to an overall length of 2.800". into Lapua was the other recipe.

    But as mentioned< I get similar results with 42 (.0000) g IMR4064.
Could be due to barrel length/twist

"a 10 mph full value wind will shift a 308 approximately 3/4 inch at 100 yards"
That's why I chrono to see wind effects an weight and speed  and aim consistently for the same spot.
If the 10mph wind is consistent, you'll still group, just 3/4" off. (see previous images I posted with TAC, perfect example).

Heard this was the "remake" of FGMM
Case: Federal GMM .308 fire formed and match prepped
Primer: Federal 210-GMM
Bullet: 168 grain SMK
Powder: 43.2 grains (?) or 43.5 grains (?) of IMR-4064
COL: 2.800"

46 grains of Varget and seated the 168 grain Match King to an overall length of 2.800". into Lapua was the other recipe.

    But as mentioned< I get similar results with 42 (.0000) g IMR4064.
Could be due to barrel length/twist
SNIP

I'll have to check my notes from researching, but the 4064 combo was what I found the most.  I have all of the components (Lapua and FGMM brass, and Varget and 4064 powders) for all listed above except for the primers.  I have CCi and Winchester primers.  I have a bunch of CCi primers, so have plenty to test and refine. 

I plan on starting to load up some ammo while my rifle is still in the shop.  I bought the Hornady OAL gauge and comparator to eventually play around with that, but that's quite a bit down the road. 

46 grains of Varget and seated the 168 grain Match King to an overall length of 2.800". into Lapua was the other recipe.

I don’t know about that number. 46 grains of Varget will be a pretty hot load under a 168 SMK.

I definitely would not want to go too close to 46 grains if possible unless you have some kind of special brass with a large internal volume.


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I don’t know about that number. 46 grains of Varget will be a pretty hot load under a 168 SMK.
I definitely would not want to go too close to 46 grains if possible unless you have some kind of special brass with a large internal volume.
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I concur.
Just reporting on  personnel research.
I would think that Lapua could be considered that "special brass" BUT
Hogden sez :

Hodgdon
Varget  0.308"
2.800"
41.0 gr
2,514 vel
46,100 PSI  pressure

45.0C
2,737  vel
60,000 PSI pressure

  As mentioned,, 39.4 of TAC gave nice results.
I'm gonna do up a batch of those again

I concur.
Just reporting on  personnel research.
I would think that Lapua could be considered that "special brass" BUT
Hogden sez :

Hodgdon
Varget  0.308"
2.800"
41.0 gr
2,514 vel
46,100 PSI  pressure

45.0C
2,737  vel
60,000 PSI pressure

  As mentioned,, 39.4 of TAC gave nice results.
I'm gonna do up a batch of those again

The manuals I have all have the max load for Varget in the 45ish range.  I don't have my notes or manuals nearby right now, but I think the starting loads were in the 40ish range. 

I can pick up more 8208.  Is 8208 anyone's favorite?

I have one jar of 8208, and one of my buddies has 8208 as the "leader in clubhouse" favorite.  I haven't started testing yet, but Varget and 4064 are tops on my list.  I've read a lot of good things about 8208 for .308, but seems like a lot of focus on that powder for the 6, 6.5, and 7 mm rounds. 

I'm down to try whatevers.  Just looking for opinions from experience. 

I can pick up more 8208.  Is 8208 anyone's favorite?

I have one jar of 8208, and one of my buddies has 8208 as the "leader in clubhouse" favorite.  I haven't started testing yet, but Varget and 4064 are tops on my list.  I've read a lot of good things about 8208 for .308, but seems like a lot of focus on that powder for the 6, 6.5, and 7 mm rounds. 

I'm down to try whatevers.  Just looking for opinions from experience.

I never tried it yet but it sounds good. An extruded, short powder that is temp stable. Supposedly flows well through PMs.

I never tried it yet but it sounds good. An extruded, short powder that is temp stable. Supposedly flows well through PMs.

I was leaning on buying a couple more jars anyways. . . 

I have a Chargemaster 1500 incoming, so hopefully that will help. 

I sometimes load with 8208 XBR. If I remember correctly, I got very few cut kernels in a powder throw.

At the time, it was one of the few 308/223 suitable powders I could find.

I also load with Varget, Reloder 15 (when I can find it for a decent price), and Ramshot TAC (bc it’s cheap). I probably would load with CFE 223 if I could find a decent price on a keg.

In general, I’m a big fan of extruded powders for 308 precision loads. They tend to be less sensitive to minor variances in charge weight.

One thing I wish I had when I was first starting to reload for rifle is one of those digital auto tricklers. I have a Hornady one now and I can’t imagine ever going back. It’s worth the money especially if you’re doing load development.


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I never tried it yet but it sounds good. An extruded, short powder that is temp stable. Supposedly flows well through PMs.

I've done about 10 rnds with 8208 XBR, but not enough to have an opinion yet.
WLYK

heads

heads

manual for dealing with heads

Another neat trick I learned is coloring the "heads" with sharpie magic marker, a different color for each recipe.
When shot onto white paper( and even some targets) it will leave a ring of color in the hole on the target.
Now I place a piece of whitepaper with several scattered splatter dots for a center (focus) and can shoot a bunch of reloads and know which rounds are what !   

If you are going to neck size only try the Lee Collet die and measure the concentricity before and after. Setup correctly you'd be surprised how little to no run out you get on the case neck. 

Concentricity is another rabbit hole that you may to choose to jump into.

At what point or range does concentricity affect accuracy? How much runout is acceptable for a certain distance?