Isn't it a Bix'N Andy BR trigger at sub 1oz? Yes it was too light for me, unpredictable.

Yeah............ it's the Bix'NAndy Comp trigger that went way below 2oz.          2oz not 2lbs.

I adjusted my triggers with a "little" ledge so that I would know I got my finger on my trigger.
Without this ledge, hard to tell when your finger is touching the trigger, and is unpredictable as Bushido says.

Chapo's trigger was 1oz or even less... if that's possible.

I have this "VTSYIQI Gram Tension Meter Dial Tension Gauge Gram Force Gauge Tensiometer 150G" which is like a  Wheeler or Lyman trigger-pull gauge, only lighter. 
It goes from 15grams (0.52oz) >> 150grams (5.29oz).  Measuring increments are 5 grams/0.17oz.

Chapo's trigger was on the low end....... maybe 30 grams or less.  My Anschutz triggers are all about 60grams, the lightest Anschutz - 2.1 oz triggers.


This is the Anschutz 5018 trigger on my 54.30 Kelbly BR rifle that was on the Anschutz Instagram site:    https://www.instagram.com/p/BqK_MbfHPjY/

........... if you chamber certain ammo then carefully eject that round, you will see light marks on the bullet. I hear many of the bolt gun precision gunsmiths cut their chambers to have the bullet lightly "jammed" in the lands as do some reloaders.

We have experienced that many will hesitate to purchase midrange ammo like RWS Orange, Yellow, SK, Wolf, etc... Personally I don't understand how some will spend 2, 3, 4, 5 grand on a rifle but are unwilling to feed it good ammo (Go back to my Ferrari reference).

Bushido, you know you right...........when I put a premium 22LR (good Lapua/Eley/RWS) round into the rifle chamber for which it was cut, it does have the slight rifling marks on the bullet when you eject it without shooting it. just like centerfires.

When you have spent much $$$$ on the rifle, that rifle deserves good ammo to shoot to its potential.       

never tried one, but ....

There are mechanical ways to tune your barrel harmonics on the cheap. And you can dial it in for different ammo.

http://harrellsprec.com/index.php/products/harrell-rimfire-tuners-403

Tuners work with a particular batch of consistent 22LR ammo (same lot of 22 ammo), at a certain distance like 50 yards.  They limit the vertical dispersion/spread of the groupings.

I use 2 types of tuners, and the jury is still out on which is better.

Harrell tuner is probably the standard tuner for BR shooters, sometimes with extra weights, sometimes with a bloop tube like Don Blue's extension tube.

BeeSting tuner & tube, with additional weights, is also a tuner that I'm playing with now.

Picture #1: Harrell tuner with Don Blue's extension tube
Picture #2: Don Blue's extension tube
Picture #3: BeeSting Tuner/Extension Tube

All my Anschutz BR rifles are reconfigured from 2-stage triggers to single-stage triggers, down to 2oz pulls. Steve Boelter (Anschutz) did this to my last 2 rifles, and taught me how to reconfigure the triggers on my
other rifles.

It will not go off by pounding the Kokohead bench table, but the lightest touch of the trigger will set it off.

Chapo's Turbo3 BR has even a lighter trigger than mine, but I can't shoot it that light, even though I'm used to 2oz triggers..............

For you, why 2 oz? 

I've read and spoken to some F-Class and BR shooters who like 1oz.  Bix 'n Andy, Jewell, and another company (I think Italian sounding name) are seemingly the go-to.

Coming from shooting a lot of AR and not finely tuned pistol triggers, I've been shooting 2-stage with the second stage in the 1 lb range.  I think my current trigger can go down to 8 oz, with the trigger on the gun in works down to 4 oz (I think).  Admittedly ignorant in this regard, so went with what is familiar to me.

My current preference is a trigger that had a defined wall and consistent and crisp break.  Like mentioned above for ammo and accuracy, it's relative since I'm coming from shooting stock triggers for such a long time, and Geissele for ARs in the last many years. 

Discussed tuners quite a bit for my centerfire rifles (currently waiting for chassis and one waiting for barrel) with my gun builder and since I am planning to tune via seating depth, went with just a brake.  I was considering a tuner brake for when I also shoot factory ammo, but there were other features of the std brake over the tuner brake that I liked.  Plus, leaves me a convenience excuse to get a new barrel or even gun to test the tuner brake.   

From the range of 22 ammo, I could envision (almost blindly guess really) that a tuner could be a benefit if one doesn't have a consistent stock of 22 ammo. 

I've never fiddled with tuners, so I have no idea: How many rounds do y'all estimate it takes to figure out the best tune for one type of ammo?

I've never fiddled with tuners, so I have no idea: How many rounds do y'all estimate it takes to figure out the best tune for one type of ammo?

Many ways to tune the tuner, with the Hopewell Method being one of the basic standard.

https://newbrunswick-benchrest.blogspot.com/2016/01/the-hopewell-method-of-barrel-tuning.html

Hopewell Method uses about 125rds, but I actually shoot less that what is stated in the Hopewell Method, so I use probably a box, maybe a little more....

Any tuning method is only good for that lot of ammo.  Anytime you change even lots of ammo of the same brand, you supposed to start from scratch.

However, I've found that once a certain # is found on the tuner, that it basically shoots the good ammo into the same place.

For example, if the Midas+ shoots good at #325, then the Center-X will probably shoot to the same POI.  It probably means that the weight of the tuner at
that certain point is at the ideal point of the barrel vibration cycle.  Eley Tenex probably won't shoot to the same POI due to velocity changes, so need to adjust
the tuner a few clicks inward or outward.  RWS R50 shoots different than all the others, since velocity is higher at 1083>1096 fps.

From the range of 22 ammo, I could envision (almost blindly guess really) that a tuner could be a benefit if one doesn't have a consistent stock of 22 ammo.

No, actually it's the opposite thinking. Tuners are good if you shoot same lot of ammo and same distances. If you change ammo often you will have to tune for every ammo. Lapua for example has their velocity in meters per second in their lot number. I would guess very close velocity would equate to minimal change in the tuner adjustment. I really wouldn't know for sure as for what I do, a tuner would not be beneficial so I don't own one. Really it's popular in BR and not much else. Maybe smallbore prone IDK

Tuners are not very popular in the centerfire disciplines as they are in Rimfire BR.

And then there's cone breach and "clocking" barrels.  I told you the rabbit hole is deeper than you think. 

All this rimfire talk may make me dust off one of the rimmies and go shoot with esk this weekend.  :shaka:I might even get Chapo to sell me his trainer. 

And then there's cone breach and "clocking" barrels.  I told you the rabbit hole is deeper than you think. 

From Lilja rifle barrel site:https://riflebarrels.com/shop/drop-in-barrels/anschutz/anschutz-model-200713-precision-barrel/

"Beginning in January of 2011 we have changed our barrel shank design from a copy of the Anschutz factory style to a modified 360º radius cone shape. 
The advantage to this style is that it allows the shooter an infinite number of positions the barrel can be rotated to. 
This allows fine tuning of the barrel.  The chamber end of the barrel is machined so that the extractors will work in any position. 
The Lilja logo and cartridge designation can be placed in the traditional position but you are not limited to that."



I got one of these and shoots exceptionally well. 

I'm having Benchmark Barrels cut me a 28" 3-groove, straight BR contour barrel, and have the gunsmith cut & contour the shank, and put a Nevius match chamber,
and cut the breech like this.

The rabbit hole is indeed deep.

you guys ever considered shooting with the smallbore league?

you guys ever considered shooting with the smallbore league?

I have considered it. It is not my preferred style of shooting but that's about all we have aside from metallic silhouette. We could do so much more here but it's Hawaii and more so the people....  Inspector and I have tried a few times to get shooters out. As usual everyone wants to "just watch". Smfh it is what it is

No, actually it's the opposite thinking. Tuners are good if you shoot same lot of ammo and same distances. If you change ammo often you will have to tune for every ammo. Lapua for example has their velocity in meters per second in their lot number. I would guess very close velocity would equate to minimal change in the tuner adjustment. I really wouldn't know for sure as for what I do, a tuner would not be beneficial so I don't own one. Really it's popular in BR and not much else. Maybe smallbore prone IDK

Tuners are not very popular in the centerfire disciplines as they are in Rimfire BR.

Ahh, interesting.  For centerfire, at least the folks that I've been following, they seemed to use tuners for a couple of reasons, and one is where one shoots factory ammo and can tune the gun better to it.  One of those designs and sells his own brand of tuner and tuner brakes.  But also a range of uses, F-Class, PRS, hunting, and just for fun. 

I currently have a range of 22 ammo, but all what I would consider plinking ammo.  Mostly meant for semi-auto handguns, but I have been buying 22 ammo where I can here and there.  None of the good stuff you folks mentioned though. 

And then there's cone breach and "clocking" barrels.  I told you the rabbit hole is deeper than you think. 

I vaguely heard of the first, not the second.  Should I even chance researching? 

My .308 and 6.5 CM is taking so long, I might have some $$$ available. . . 

All this rimfire talk may make me dust off one of the rimmies and go shoot with esk this weekend.  :shaka:I might even get Chapo to sell me his trainer. 

Post some pic! 

"Clocking the barrel"

From Lilja rifle barrel site:https://riflebarrels.com/shop/drop-in-barrels/anschutz/anschutz-model-200713-precision-barrel

"Beginning in January of 2011 we have changed our barrel shank design from a copy of the Anschutz factory style to a modified 360º radius cone shape.
The advantage to this style is that it allows the shooter an infinite number of positions the barrel can be rotated to.
This allows fine tuning of the barrel.  The chamber end of the barrel is machined so that the extractors will work in any position.
The Lilja logo and cartridge designation can be placed in the traditional position but you are not limited to that."

Clocking the barrel means that you can rotate the barrel (12o'clock, 3o'clock, 6o'clock, 9o'clock), then headspace with a go gauge, without regard of extraction cuts
because no more extractor cuts on a cone-shaped end shank.

               For example, on a regular rifle, the barrel markings are on the left-side of the barrel in about a 10o'clock mark. 
                                    You cannot clock a regular barrel because of the extractor cuts will not allow you to do this.
                                    The Lilja cone-shaped end allows me to put the Lilja barrel markings at 3o'clock.
                                     

I've read about clocking barrels, but really have not gone too deep on rotating barrels.  I haven't noticed much difference.  I clean my action & barrel every couple of months
and I rotate the barrel and play with the headspace with my go gauges.  I try to change them a little every time, but haven't seen any great change - good or bad.

It would be hard to clock a barrel if threaded into receiver?

Yeah, probably cannot with a threaded barrel.

Using a headspace gauge of 0.42, 0.43 (standard 22LR), or 0.44 only gives you only so much play on the threaded barrel.

The Anschutz 2013 action clamps down on the barrel, so it's possible to clock the barrel.

It would be hard to clock a barrel if threaded into receiver?

Not necessarily but extremely time and labor consuming. The cone breach is the big part, if traditional extractor slots were used, it wouldn't be worth the effort IMO.  The very competitive rimfire shooters "glue in" barrels to actions and actions to stocks for that matter. You can imagine at the highest competitions, they are doing every little thing to gain an advantage. Accuracy is 100% relative. In F-Class they are tossing barrels because their X counts dropping. These barrels are still shooting sub MOA out to 600 and 1000 yards but for them, they are gone. 95% of shooters would kill to have a barrel that could do that.

 

I currently have a range of 22 ammo, but all what I would consider plinking ammo.  Mostly meant for semi-auto handguns, but I have been buying 22 ammo where I can here and there.  None of the good stuff you folks mentioned though.

Oh boy, don't get esk started on rimfire pistols.  He has a safe full of the "good chit".