I need to build a Rifle Frame for Kokohead.  It looks like there is a height range between 48" to 80" high.  What would be a suitable height for 100yrds shooting 5.56?  I have a SUV so a 48" high frame would work perfectly for transportation.

I have only shot military pop targets or used ranges that had their own targets so I never thought about the "science" of target frame size.  Assuming it is a science.

I need to build a Rifle Frame for Kokohead.  It looks like there is a height range between 48" to 80" high.  What would be a suitable height for 100yrds shooting 5.56?  I have a SUV so a 48" high frame would work perfectly for transportation.

I have only shot military pop targets or used ranges that had their own targets so I never thought about the "science" of target frame size.  Assuming it is a science.

My truck bed is slightly over 5', so I use about 60" height.  I leave space at the top for steel plates and connect them with chains on the front of the frame so spatter is deflected forward of the wood.  Otherwise you'll quickly destroy the legs.  Ask me how I know ....

Brand new frame after one range visit:





Notice the chains were attached to the horizontal bar, and that was behind the verticals.  I basically turned the frame around so the horizontal piece was forward of the legs, and attached the plates in front of the horizontal.  No more frame damage from bullet spatter.

As long as the legs are spaced apart properly to fit the frame holes, the legs are tapered to a round-ish shape (square lumber in a round pipe in the ground), and the rules for shooting steel are followed, you'll be fine.  I've seen some creative targets out there.  Some super tall or short, and some super wide.  Just depends on your needs and vehicle dimensions, I guess.

I believe 50 yds is okay for steel plates using a rimfire rifle (.22 LR, .17 HMR).  Centerfire are only allowed at 100 yds.  Shotguns on paper targets must use slugs only at 50 or 100, but there are some 25 yds holes at one end for shotguns.  For steel, shotguns are included in Centerfire rules.

The lumber dimensions are used so they are close to the size of the pipes in the ground.  Technically, you can engineer a frame with the right size and spaced-apart legs to fit the pipes, then attach lumber that's of different dimensions.

Here's an example of a frame that's part wooden/part steel.  FabTek Engineering made/makes some steel frames that can be used for just reactive (steel) targets, or use hooks to hold a wooden frame above it -- basically 2 targets in one.

https://www.fabtekengineering.com/koko-head-systems

I've heard a few guys discussing purchasing a metal frame, priced at around $300 - 400. Assuming the range uses iron pipe with an inside diameter of 2.097" (schedule 40 2" pipe), a person would need to shave off 0.012" off the corners of a 2x2 piece (nominal 1.5" square) of lumber, and a similar amount on 1.5" square steel tubing. Probably a little less since steel tubing has rounded edges. Now, for the do-it-yourself handyman, all we need is to locate 1.5" steel tubing in 8' lengths and we're in business. Home Depot only has 3' lengths. A novel workaround is to use some planed wood 2x2's to join the sections from the inside. 
Six pieces of metal, wood joiner, and screws would be around $130 in material. Sounds like a plan for a cottage industry. With my luck, the steel post would get stuck in the ground.

Does anyone have a quote from Fabtek for their rifle frame?

Steel plate needs to only swing front to back and not be able to twist side to side excessively.  If in doubt check with range staff.

I bought this off amazon for $35 to hang steel from and used conduit (I think it was 7/8") for the frame and so far it works better than I expected. I didn't want to use schedule 40 pipe because of the weight.

If your shooting paper, 48” is fine. Can hang two maybe three targets vertically. (Rifle side only.)
Steel. I got a fabtek target stand from when he first started. Two actually. A one steel target and a two steel target stand.
Really well made and fits good. Traded the two target stand and have the one target.

I go 48” because it makes for less lumber.

Steel plate needs to only swing front to back and not be able to twist side to side excessively.  If in doubt check with range staff.

If you're using chain, leather, or something else that can twist, I believe the plates require 2 points of contact between the frame and plate.  That's to eliminate the twist.

If you use a swinging bar on a hinge, that's good enough (like the FabTek targets).

I need to build a Rifle Frame for Kokohead.  It looks like there is a height range between 48" to 80" high.  What would be a suitable height for 100yrds shooting 5.56?  I have a SUV so a 48" high frame would work perfectly for transportation.

I have only shot military pop targets or used ranges that had their own targets so I never thought about the "science" of target frame size.  Assuming it is a science.

.....
Assuming you only shooting paper, it's super cheap and easy.
One piece of 2x2x8 cut in half.
A couple pieces of scrap wood 14 inches long.
Some screws. Cardboard. Staples.
Don't overthink it.
I like to paint the top so it's easier to identify at 100 yards.
It's not uncommon to shoot the wrong target.

.....
Assuming you only shooting paper, it's super cheap and easy.
One piece of 2x2x8 cut in half.
A couple pieces of scrap wood 14 inches long.
Some screws. Cardboard. Staples.
Don't overthink it.

That is what I was assuming, not over thinking.  I followed the instruction for the pistol frame but when I went to the range, I saw all kinds of frames.  It seemed as if the instruction was more as a suggestion as the rule.  Bottom line is, make sure the feet/legs fit in the bracket and you are good.

Thanks for the pic.

Yup. Then shoot it up and build ‘em again. 
Oh and take a pocket knife in case you gotta whittle a little bit.

My truck bed is slightly over 5', so I use about 60" height.  I leave space at the top for steel plates and connect them with chains on the front of the frame so spatter is deflected forward of the wood.  Otherwise you'll quickly destroy the legs.  Ask me how I know ....

Brand new frame after one range visit:





Notice the chains were attached to the horizontal bar, and that was behind the verticals.  I basically turned the frame around so the horizontal piece was forward of the legs, and attached the plates in front of the horizontal.  No more frame damage from bullet spatter.

As long as the legs are spaced apart properly to fit the frame holes, the legs are tapered to a round-ish shape (square lumber in a round pipe in the ground), and the rules for shooting steel are followed, you'll be fine.  I've seen some creative targets out there.  Some super tall or short, and some super wide.  Just depends on your needs and vehicle dimensions, I guess.

I believe 50 yds is okay for steel plates using a rimfire rifle (.22 LR, .17 HMR).  Centerfire are only allowed at 100 yds.  Shotguns on paper targets must use slugs only at 50 or 100, but there are some 25 yds holes at one end for shotguns.  For steel, shotguns are included in Centerfire rules.

The lumber dimensions are used so they are close to the size of the pipes in the ground.  Technically, you can engineer a frame with the right size and spaced-apart legs to fit the pipes, then attach lumber that's of different dimensions.

Here's an example of a frame that's part wooden/part steel.  FabTek Engineering made/makes some steel frames that can be used for just reactive (steel) targets, or use hooks to hold a wooden frame above it -- basically 2 targets in one.

https://www.fabtekengineering.com/koko-head-systems

That good to see that they allow steel targets.  I might need to research on making on of those target trees.  i.e. hit the target and it swings to the other side.

Thanks for the pics.  Your frame looks like my pistol frame after my sons and wife went shooting for the first time in their life.  I was afraid the RM was going to kick us out for missing the target to many times.  My wife was scaring the heck out of me when she started hitting the front berm.

That good to see that they allow steel targets.  I might need to research on making on of those target trees.  i.e. hit the target and it swings to the other side.

Thanks for the pics.  Your frame looks like my pistol frame after my sons and wife went shooting for the first time in their life.  I was afraid the RM was going to kick us out for missing the target to many times.  My wife was scaring the heck out of me when she started hitting the front berm.

shooting trees not allowed...

I've heard a few guys discussing purchasing a metal frame, priced at around $300 - 400. Assuming the range uses iron pipe with an inside diameter of 2.097" (schedule 40 2" pipe), a person would need to shave off 0.012" off the corners of a 2x2 piece (nominal 1.5" square) of lumber, and a similar amount on 1.5" square steel tubing. Probably a little less since steel tubing has rounded edges. Now, for the do-it-yourself handyman, all we need is to locate 1.5" steel tubing in 8' lengths and we're in business. Home Depot only has 3' lengths. A novel workaround is to use some planed wood 2x2's to join the sections from the inside. 
Six pieces of metal, wood joiner, and screws would be around $130 in material. Sounds like a plan for a cottage industry. With my luck, the steel post would get stuck in the ground.

Does anyone have a quote from Fabtek for their rifle frame?

you're not taking into account the engineering time/costs, purchasing materials, storage, construction time, marketing, and profits...

fabtek usually goes to the gun shows, but we haven't had one since march 2020, and MAY have one again in march 2022...

Assuming the range uses iron pipe with an inside diameter of 2.097" (schedule 40 2" pipe),

Come on man, 2" schedule 40 pipe has an inside diameter of 2.067", everyone knows that.

I remember when the range provided frames....

Come on man, 2" schedule 40 pipe has an inside diameter of 2.067", everyone knows that.

more amps...

That is what I was assuming, not over thinking.  I followed the instruction for the pistol frame but when I went to the range, I saw all kinds of frames.  It seemed as if the instruction was more as a suggestion as the rule.  Bottom line is, make sure the feet/legs fit in the bracket and you are good.

Thanks for the pic.

I invested in a couple of spring clamps, about 2.99 each at City Mill.  At the pistol side there are some brackets where one side has completely rusted off and the clamps will hold the target legs to the remaining piece of metal.

I think lane #20 is like this.  I was assigned this lane and the RM lent me a couple of clamps because he knew the brackets in the ground was rusted through.

I've heard a few guys discussing purchasing a metal frame, priced at around $300 - 400. Assuming the range uses iron pipe with an inside diameter of 2.097" (schedule 40 2" pipe), a person would need to shave off 0.012" off the corners of a 2x2 piece (nominal 1.5" square) of lumber, and a similar amount on 1.5" square steel tubing. Probably a little less since steel tubing has rounded edges. Now, for the do-it-yourself handyman, all we need is to locate 1.5" steel tubing in 8' lengths and we're in business. Home Depot only has 3' lengths. A novel workaround is to use some planed wood 2x2's to join the sections from the inside. 
Six pieces of metal, wood joiner, and screws would be around $130 in material. Sounds like a plan for a cottage industry. With my luck, the steel post would get stuck in the ground.

Does anyone have a quote from Fabtek for their rifle frame?

If you're using the square tubing for the verticals  make sure you take a small sledge  hammer and preferable a tapered steel rod the same as the inside diameter  of the pipe in the ground.  Bad shooters really mangled some of those in ground pipes.

For me, i like a smaller frame. So either breakdownable for the 4ft ones or a smaller 2 foot tall 1. I live in a condo and like to be discrete. If i had a garage, then wouldnt matter.

My first wood frame was built by Heavies here. Idk if he still does it (4ft tallish).

Current metal frame i got from Prime Sports.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

If you're using the square tubing for the verticals  make sure you take a small sledge  hammer and preferable a tapered steel rod the same as the inside diameter  of the pipe in the ground.  Bad shooters really mangled some of those in ground pipes.

If they mangled it bad enough, then the pipes are no longer nominal 2.x" ID in the round. By whacking your post into the hole, don't you risk getting your post or stand stuck there permanently?

For those who own a Fabtek stand, what are the dimensions (esp. diameter) of each post, and the center-center spacing between the posts? Buying something for a lot of money, and shooting it up with .308 ammo makes it an expendable item. (I blame bad shots on ammo and Paka'a wind  ).