OP

What flange are you speaking of? I'm thinking circular handguard cap? If it is just use sheet metal shears and cut it off or a dremel and trim it/ shave it down.
Or the proper way and remove handguard, muzzle device and gas block and get it off.

Or you can post a pic of it? I saw the link. But unsure of what flange. Isnthe flange connected to the handguard?

If you wanna do a cloth type. Buy those kurtz supressor wraps. Some use bungee cord and you can slip the fsp inbetween the bungees. Iirc theres another silicone type I think the company started with the letter "M" and you could possibly cut a hole so the fsp can protrude up and out. I forget how mucj these costs tho. But you can Google pics of it. They allow you to use your bare hand to some degree instead of using gloves

3rd option. Use gloves. 😬

Edit: I'm pretty sure your talking bout the handguard cap after re-reading your original post.

If you have a standard a2 FSP it should be taper pinned in and the cap is unnecessary.

Anywho. Exhaust wraps come in a variety of materials. Titanium and kevlar seems to be the best from what I remember. It didnt flake like fiberglass woven material after years of use. Although, I don't recommend wrapping your barrel . doubt harmonics would be affected at all but who knows.

Plus you want the barrel exposed to air to cool down faster. Right? Lol.

OP

What flange are you speaking of? I'm thinking circular handguard cap? If it is just use sheet metal shears and cut it off or a dremel and trim it/ shave it down.
Or the proper way and remove handguard, muzzle device and gas block and get it off.

Or you can post a pic of it? I saw the link. But unsure of what flange. Isnthe flange connected to the handguard?

If you wanna do a cloth type. Buy those kurtz supressor wraps. Some use bungee cord and you can slip the fsp inbetween the bungees. Iirc theres another silicone type I think the company started with the letter "M" and you could possibly cut a hole so the fsp can protrude up and out. I forget how mucj these costs tho. But you can Google pics of it. They allow you to use your bare hand to some degree instead of using gloves

3rd option. Use gloves. 😬

Edit: I'm pretty sure your talking bout the handguard cap after re-reading your original post.

If you have a standard a2 FSP it should be taper pinned in and the cap is unnecessary.

Anywho. Exhaust wraps come in a variety of materials. Titanium and kevlar seems to be the best from what I remember. It didnt flake like fiberglass woven material after years of use. Although, I don't recommend wrapping your barrel . doubt harmonics would be affected at all but who knows.

Plus you want the barrel exposed to air to cool down faster. Right? Lol.

Yes, the handguard cap!
 It is basically the 3 o clock and 9 o clock portion that is exposed. Hot enough to be very uncomfortable but I didn't burn myself.

Gloves are a good idea but I was hoping for some sort of fabric. I know there are heat proof (resistant) fabrics but have to find an adhesive that can withstand the heat to attach the fabric. Maybe one of those exhaust epoxies could do it but kind of messy.

THanks for giving me the part name, I will do more searching and see if there are any products mentioned for it.

Can you list the laws that LE is not given an exception under?

I'm talking only about what firearms and accessories LE can own: > 10 rd mags for pistols, sound suppressors, the new assault weapons ban bill, etc.

https://www.capitol.hawaii.gov/hrscurrent/Vol03_Ch0121-0200D/HRS0134/HRS_0134-0011.htm

Explosives, but you said gun so guess that doesn't count.
Having a firearm while being served a TRO/protective order
They aren't exempt from a permit to acquire or mandatory registration.
Ghost guns
Removing a serial number.

Most of the fun accessories LEOs are given an exemption

Yes, the handguard cap!
 It is basically the 3 o clock and 9 o clock portion that is exposed. Hot enough to be very uncomfortable but I didn't burn myself.

Gloves are a good idea but I was hoping for some sort of fabric. I know there are heat proof (resistant) fabrics but have to find an adhesive that can withstand the heat to attach the fabric. Maybe one of those exhaust epoxies could do it but kind of messy.

THanks for giving me the part name, I will do more searching and see if there are any products mentioned for it.

No problem.

Wanna just remove it? Cheapest option. Justbneed some time and elbow grease. Remove handguard and fsb taper pins. Then simply cut it off without removing muzzle device. That would be the cleanest way.

If ya wanna epoxy you'll prob have to sand the cap down to expose the bare metal. Pretty sure they are anodized so it wont adhere as good. Mgm makes a tape. But I think its omly good to 300 degrees. Heatwise. Its the glue they use for adhesives that'll give you problems as heat will soften the glue on tape style products. Which will make it come loose

No problem.

Wanna just remove it? Cheapest option. Justbneed some time and elbow grease. Remove handguard and fsb taper pins. Then simply cut it off without removing muzzle device. That would be the cleanest way.

If ya wanna epoxy you'll prob have to sand the cap down to expose the bare metal. Pretty sure they are anodized so it wont adhere as good. Mgm makes a tape. But I think its omly good to 300 degrees. Heatwise. Its the glue they use for adhesives that'll give you problems as heat will soften the glue on tape style products. Which will make it come loose

IIRC some of the better ones are up to 400 degrees. Guess a trip to the hardware store is in order. I don't know how hot a barrel on a semi auto gets though
I did think about cutting it off but if I ever decide to switch guards then I might need it to attach another guard.

Is there are reason you're not willing to remove the A2 front sight and replace it with a low profile gas block?

If it's because you have a pinned & welded muzzle device, that's not very complicated to remove with the right tools without damaging anything.

My first "build" was a stripped lower and complete upper from PSA.  I went that route mainly because i wasn't sure what i really wanted in my 2nd AR after the Colt LE6940.

What i decided was I wanted a free floated barrel similar to my Colt.  The most direct solution was to replace the handguard and gas block/A2 sight post.  Since the barrel was 16" without the flash hider, I had no problem removing it.  i had already purchased a replacement for it anyway -- something more effective at hiding the flash than the birdcage design.

With a little research, i knew what diameter gas block I needed, what tools I had to buy, and what handguard i thought looked promising.  I also purchased a front sight to attach to the rail.  The number of parts was minimal, and the handguard was the only big ticket item -- I think i spent less for my Troy handguard than the one you have now.

I did all the work myself, and even chose the same configuration for my next build -- which was actually for my daughter.  She liked the look and feel of my handguard, so that's what we chose.

Anyway, unless you have a need for the A2 sight post, i'd say ditch it.  Colt offered free floated barrels with A2 posts, but i'm not sure i've ever seen any other company offer them.  if a barrel is free floated, the handguard is usually over the gas block, and the front sight is on top of the handguard.

One of the benefits of a flip-up front sight, besides the obvious, is the longer sight radius.  The more distance between the BUIS, the better your sight picture.

Of course, the A2 can hinder the use of many optics as well.  Another reason to consider ditching it.  Flip-up sights are only visible when they are needed and out of the picture when they aren't.  Even if the sights are 1/3rd co-witnessed, I found having the front sight anywhere in the viewing area of my optic a distraction at the very least.

Is there are reason you're not willing to remove the A2 front sight and replace it with a low profile gas block?

If it's because you have a pinned & welded muzzle device, that's not very complicated to remove with the right tools without damaging anything.

My first "build" was a stripped lower and complete upper from PSA.  I went that route mainly because i wasn't sure what i really wanted in my 2nd AR after the Colt LE6940.

What i decided was I wanted a free floated barrel similar to my Colt.  The most direct solution was to replace the handguard and gas block/A2 sight post.  Since the barrel was 16" without the flash hider, I had no problem removing it.  i had already purchased a replacement for it anyway -- something more effective at hiding the flash than the birdcage design.

With a little research, i knew what diameter gas block I needed, what tools I had to buy, and what handguard i thought looked promising.  I also purchased a front sight to attach to the rail.  The number of parts was minimal, and the handguard was the only big ticket item -- I think i spent less for my Troy handguard than the one you have now.

I did all the work myself, and even chose the same configuration for my next build -- which was actually for my daughter.  She liked the look and feel of my handguard, so that's what we chose.

Anyway, unless you have a need for the A2 sight post, i'd say ditch it.  Colt offered free floated barrels with A2 posts, but i'm not sure i've ever seen any other company offer them.  if a barrel is free floated, the handguard is usually over the gas block, and the front sight is on top of the handguard.

One of the benefits of a flip-up front sight, besides the obvious, is the longer sight radius.  The more distance between the BUIS, the better your sight picture.

Of course, the A2 can hinder the use of many optics as well.  Another reason to consider ditching it.  Flip-up sights are only visible when they are needed and out of the picture when they aren't.  Even if the sights are 1/3rd co-witnessed, I found having the front sight anywhere in the viewing area of my optic a distraction at the very least.

I like having the front sight post as a backup, I have an MRO with a 1/3 cowitness mount.  I could spend more, take it off and replace it with a flip up, remove and reinstall the Warcomp, but at this point it just doesn't seem worth that effort. If I were to start from scratch I would have ordered a different set up but not really interesting in getting a whole new upper just to solve this small problem.

If I ever decide to do a pin and weld on a 14.5" then maybe I would get a low profile gas block. That shortening of the barrel and removing the FSP might lighten the gun up a little too but then I would lose a small amount of velocity. But then maybe just buy a socom barrel. Bummer thing was I waited over a year to get this handguard and not sure if it serves much purpose on a gun with no FSP and its not the cheapest or the lightest.

To clarify, you’re concerned about the cap that’s behind the FSP?

https://youtu.be/qkEK5_Nr8Kc?si=_IJWvKA1r5hRniuo

I found this video on the rail and during the video, it shows the cap. If your gun is setup like the one in this video, how are you burning your hand in the cap? Or is the rail in contact with the cap or the rail itself getting hot?

I just don’t see how your hand is touching the cap. At least in this video it seems inset, or not protruding. Even then, where would you put the fabric? On the rail? If on the rail, I still think you’re better off with a hand stop or G10 or other scale on the top pic section. If you’re going to put the fabric on the cap, won’t it contact the rail?  Thus lose the benefit of free float.

I like having the front sight post as a backup, I have an MRO with a 1/3 cowitness mount.  I could spend more, take it off and replace it with a flip up, remove and reinstall the Warcomp, but at this point it just doesn't seem worth that effort. If I were to start from scratch I would have ordered a different set up but not really interesting in getting a whole new upper just to solve this small problem.

If I ever decide to do a pin and weld on a 14.5" then maybe I would get a low profile gas block. That shortening of the barrel and removing the FSP might lighten the gun up a little too but then I would lose a small amount of velocity. But then maybe just buy a socom barrel. Bummer thing was I waited over a year to get this handguard and not sure if it serves much purpose on a gun with no FSP and its not the cheapest or the lightest.

You can remove the A2 FSP by cutting it off.  Then you can install a lo-pro gas block without removing the flash hider.

I asked if there is some reason you are not willing to remove the A2 FSP.  You said "I like having it as a backup."  A flip up sight provides a backup, too.  I don't see your reasoning at all.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-parts/rifle-parts/rifle-gas-system-parts/ar-15-2-pc-detent-adjustable-low-profile-gas-block/

There's also the cheaper method.  You can remove just the sight post by cutting below it and leave the gas block portion attached to the barrel.  There's more than one way to float a barrel.

You can remove the A2 FSP by cutting it off.  Then you can install a lo-pro gas block without removing the flash hider.

I asked if there is some reason you are not willing to remove the A2 FSP.  You said "I like having it as a backup."  A flip up sight provides a backup, too.  I don't see your reasoning at all.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-parts/rifle-parts/rifle-gas-system-parts/ar-15-2-pc-detent-adjustable-low-profile-gas-block/

There's also the cheaper method.  You can remove just the sight post by cutting below it and leave the gas block portion attached to the barrel.  There's more than one way to float a barrel.

That's my preference.  I have two guns that I did this (one by me, one by "a pro friend").  I also have a Colt OEM2 upper, which is essentially the same. 

That's my preference.  I have two guns that I did this (one by me, one by "a pro friend").  I also have a Colt OEM2 upper, which is essentially the same.

 

I considered that, but I wanted to experiment with an adjustable gas block.

The tight wads among us (and i believe EEF qualifies) would rather do nothing than alter the A2 FSP/gas block in case he ever has a need for it again.  Or he can sell it intact one day -- which likely never comes because he never removed it.

Can't pay the price for a new gas block and front flip-up sight, and can't bring themselves to cut the A2 they already paid for. 

Sometimes you just gotta say,
-- Joel

I considered that, but I wanted to experiment with an adjustable gas block.

The tight wads among us (and i believe EEF qualifies) would rather do nothing than alter the A2 FSP/gas block in case he ever has a need for it again.  Or he can sell it intact one day -- which likely never comes because he never removed it.

Can't pay the price for a new gas block and front flip-up sight, and can't bring themselves to cut the A2 they already paid for. 

Sometimes you just gotta say,
-- Joel

I have both.  At one point in my AR "progression" I was in the A vs B mode, and had to try both.  FSP and and flip up.  Normal weight barrel and light weight.  And so on.  Eventually narrowed down to what fit my needs and frankly preference. Everyone has their preference.  Personally, I've seen so many guns have problems with misaligned or other issues with gas blocks.  Even this past weekend where a shooter probably shot over 100 rounds tuning his adjustable gas block.  Nothing wrong with that, just something I'd rather not deal with. 

  I say that all the time. . . 

I have both.  At one point in my AR "progression" I was in the A vs B mode, and had to try both.  FSP and and flip up.  Normal weight barrel and light weight.  And so on.  Eventually narrowed down to what fit my needs and frankly preference. Everyone has their preference.  Personally, I've seen so many guns have problems with misaligned or other issues with gas blocks.  Even this past weekend where a shooter probably shot over 100 rounds tuning his adjustable gas block.  Nothing wrong with that, just something I'd rather not deal with. 

  I say that all the time. . . 

If he needed 100 rds to tune his gas block, there's something wrong somewhere. 

I used the toothpick method to align the gas port in the barrel with the port in the block.  You can use a piece of spaghetti, plastic ... anything you can break in half easily once it's in position.  Just make the alignment tool -- basically a tiny "stick" -- long enough to go from the bottom of the gas block port so it reaches into the barrel port.  Attack the gas block, then turn the barrel over so the stick slides into both port holes.  You can tell when they are aligned, because you can no longer rotate the gas block due to the stick being in both ports.  Tighten down the block, and use a cleaning rod down the barrel to break the stick in half.  The stick pieces should fall out easily.  Some places actually sell these plastic sticks:

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/rifle-tools/ar-15-gas-block-aligner/

I like this better than the other methods I tried.  This is much more accurate than blowing air through the port and gauging the sound or resistance.

If that guy's gas port wasn't aligned, then the range of adjustment was limited -- maybe to the point where it would never be in the right setting.

Adjusting mine was easy.  I opened it all the way up, then gradually closed it between shots.  it took maybe 8-10 shots until the rifle stopped cycling.  I opened it back up a bit, and that gave me the least amount of gas pressure to make the bolt cycle.  Depending on the ammo you normally use, you might want to open it just a bit more so lower pressure ammo can still cycle without having to make more adjustments.

Having said that, it's possible the other dude was using more than one batch of ammo, and the variation in pressure or the weight of the bullet had him chasing too many variables at once?

If he needed 100 rds to tune his gas block, there's something wrong somewhere. 

SNIP

Having said that, it's possible the other dude was using more than one batch of ammo, and the variation in pressure or the weight of the bullet had him chasing too many variables at once?

I was exaggerating.  Maybe 20 ish. . .

Personally, I've seen similar when folks shoot cheap (under powered) ammo in mid-length guns where they "tuned" the action via buffers, springs, etc for 193, 855, etc 5.56 ammo.  Not really sure what he was doing.  Just noticed him having some issues and noted that he had an adjustable gas block. 

I was exaggerating.  Maybe 20 ish. . .

Personally, I've seen similar when folks shoot cheap (under powered) ammo in mid-length guns where they "tuned" the action via buffers, springs, etc for 193, 855, etc 5.56 ammo.  Not really sure what he was doing.  Just noticed him having some issues and noted that he had an adjustable gas block.

Gunsmithing isn't like most hobbies.  If you aren't careful and don't have someone with experience helping, you can cause some real damage/injuries.

That's why I started out slowly, only tackling the sections of the AR I felt comfortable with.  eventually, I graduated to gas blocks and tubes, barrel installations and similar.  I'd get the right tools, read and watch the right tutorials, and then research any questions i had. 

When it came time to build my daughter's AR, I had all the tools and parts gathered for her.  Pretty much plug n play.  The hard part was specing out everything so I was sure it was all compatible and would just work.

Gunsmithing isn't like most hobbies.  If you aren't careful and don't have someone with experience helping, you can cause some real damage/injuries.

That's why I started out slowly, only tackling the sections of the AR I felt comfortable with.  eventually, I graduated to gas blocks and tubes, barrel installations and similar.  I'd get the right tools, read and watch the right tutorials, and then research any questions i had. 

When it came time to build my daughter's AR, I had all the tools and parts gathered for her.  Pretty much plug n play.  The hard part was specing out everything so I was sure it was all compatible and would just work.

That's why I know my paygrade and have someone else install things.

That's why I know my paygrade and have someone else install things.

You should give it a try. . . another thing you can be expert at. . . 

or more to argue with folks online with 

You should give it a try. . . another thing you can be expert at. . . 

or more to argue with folks online with 

If you don't try, you'll never know ...

I figure if others can do something, I can too with enough learning and effort.  Might take me longer than a professional, but I usually get there.

Fun fact. Most gas blocks if not all, have enlarged gas port holes on the gas block to help with mislaignment. My yhm low pro gas blocks were like 2.5 times bigger than my gas port hole on my barrel. I did the old school pencil and micrometer technique first then I discovered the toothpick trick on prob my 3rd or 4th upper. Cant remember as this was bavk around 2010-2012 ish.

Headspacing and torquing of the barrel nut is probably the most crucial part of building ar15s and as always buy quality/ known parts.

Hehe. But back to topic for OP.

I too have both an upper with a fsb and another upper with full length qual rail and LP gas block. Essentially its a bcm upper with the qrf rail. Its all preference. I do like quad rails over mlok. Ive put together 9 or so uppers and only kept my quad rail uppers. Its my preference. I like the old school look. Well not as old as plastic m4 handguards. 😂

Maybe buy a glove and welders mask.