The higher the IQ, the closer to stock they keep their revolvers. . . 

Except for stang of course. . . 

Good save!!! 

The higher the IQ, the closer to stock they keep their revolvers. . . 

Except for stang of course. . . 

I sometimes buy parts before I actually get the gun.   

changed to the Wolff spring for my Ruger Redhawk 44magnum
stock trigger is about 10-11 lbs DA, 4 lbs SA.  with the Wolff spring its around 8 lbs DA, 3 lbs SA.  feels much better.  happy with how it turned out   
install was more difficult than the GP100 and the S&W.  the Redhawk's Hogue bantam grip was a SOB to get off and put back on compared to the normal screw on grip.  then the hammer/trigger spring (theres only one for the Redhawk) is pretty tricky to get out and reinstall.
its not a lot of steps, just takes more patience.

this is the video I used for the install.  was better than the video from Ruger

I tested the Ruger Redhawk and S&W 629 both with Wolff spring kits
Tested with federal American eagle 240 gr jhp, blazer 240 gr jhp, and black hills 210 grain 44sp lead fp. I fired 50 rounds BH, and 50 rounds total of AE and blazer
Redhawk fired all ammo, no problem
The 629 had a lot of light hammer strikes with all ammo, with the hammer spring 5/8 from full tension. So I tightened hammer spring to full tension and only had light strikes with blazer ammo
I will switch the 629 spring back to stock bc reliability is top priority with me. Well, live and learn.
But I am very pleased with the Wolff hammer/trigger spring in the Ruger Redhawk. Noticeably lighter, well worth the $15.
Knowing this, I am going to leave my 627 PC alone, and I'm hesitant to do my 586 now

I tested the Ruger Redhawk and S&W 629 both with Wolff spring kits
Tested with federal American eagle 240 gr jhp, blazer 240 gr jhp, and black hills 210 grain 44sp lead fp. I fired 50 rounds BH, and 50 rounds total of AE and blazer
Redhawk fired all ammo, no problem
The 629 had a lot of light hammer strikes with all ammo, with the hammer spring 5/8 from full tension. So I tightened hammer spring to full tension and only had light strikes with blazer ammo
I will switch the 629 spring back to stock bc reliability is top priority with me. Well, live and learn.
But I am very pleased with the Wolff hammer/trigger spring in the Ruger Redhawk. Noticeably lighter, well worth the $15.
Knowing this, I am going to leave my 627 PC alone, and I'm hesitant to do my 586 now

Thanks for the updates. 

I previously did the Wolff springs in my 2 GP100's and they function flawlessly.

 

Remington 180 grain JSP, 1610 fps

GP100 vs 686+



first of all, Yankee Marshall is wrong!!! 
no way is the 686 easier to work on than the GP100.  S&W trigger is smoother, I'll give it that, but you take it apart do a spring job and its much more complicated than the GP100
S&W Hillary hole.  don't like it, but it hasn't really hurt its performance in my short experience.
he says the full grip frame on the 686 is better bc you can fire it better without the grips on.  who fires their revolver without the grips?  that's a stupid argument. 
when you disassemble the GP, the trigger assembly all comes out.  on the 686 take off the side plate and be careful you don't tilt the gun the other way or the internals will fall out and then you realize, "where did all that come from and where do I put it back?" not all parts but some
he compares the sound of the triggers and says the 686 just sounds cleaner and sharper and just better.  he says its not subjective but it is objective.  that's his opinion.  but for $15 you can do a trigger upgrade on the GP and its much better.  I did the same upgrade on my 629 which has the same trigger workings as the 686, then I got a lot of light primer strikes so I had to return the springs back to stock. 
I'm a Ruger guy so my opinion is a little biased.  but doing trigger work on both, the GP100 is easier to work on IMO.  its just simpler as far as the trigger and hammer go
both are very good revolvers and you can't go wrong with either one, that's why I have both (actually a 586 not 686 but basically the same its just blued and not stainless)  I do like the looks of the 586 with the blueing, its really classy looking, beautiful.  the GP100 looks more rugged to me, more like an outdoors beat around revolver, which is beautiful in its own way.  my 6" GP100 is my test gun for reloads.  it handles hot loads well, accurate, and more comfortable to shoot.
in the end its just opinion and personal preference.   

GP100 vs 686+



first of all, Yankee Marshall is wrong!!! 
no way is the 686 easier to work on than the GP100.  S&W trigger is smoother, I'll give it that, but you take it apart do a spring job and its much more complicated than the GP100
S&W Hillary hole.  don't like it, but it hasn't really hurt its performance in my short experience.
he says the full grip frame on the 686 is better bc you can fire it better without the grips on.  who fires their revolver without the grips?  that's a stupid argument. 
when you disassemble the GP, the trigger assembly all comes out.  on the 686 take off the side plate and be careful you don't tilt the gun the other way or the internals will fall out and then you realize, "where did all that come from and where do I put it back?" not all parts but some
he compares the sound of the triggers and says the 686 just sounds cleaner and sharper and just better.  he says its not subjective but it is objective.  that's his opinion.  but for $15 you can do a trigger upgrade on the GP and its much better.  I did the same upgrade on my 629 which has the same trigger workings as the 686, then I got a lot of light primer strikes so I had to return the springs back to stock. 
I'm a Ruger guy so my opinion is a little biased.  but doing trigger work on both, the GP100 is easier to work on IMO.  its just simpler as far as the trigger and hammer go
both are very good revolvers and you can't go wrong with either one, that's why I have both (actually a 586 not 686 but basically the same its just blued and not stainless)  I do like the looks of the 586 with the blueing, its really classy looking, beautiful.  the GP100 looks more rugged to me, more like an outdoors beat around revolver, which is beautiful in its own way.  my 6" GP100 is my test gun for reloads.  it handles hot loads well, accurate, and more comfortable to shoot.
in the end its just opinion and personal preference.   

You know what I am going to say here. So I’ll say it for those who may not know.

Ruger has a fine history of making high quality firearms at a lower cost. They have perfected the investment casting process which really improved what they are making at a lower cost. Plus they are very creative in redesigning their firearms to use less parts but perform similarly to their competitors. Ain’t nothin’ wrong with that. It is the American way. Rugers are built tough. They put more material where it is needed. And they use less parts because they are not needed. I have and still own Ruger guns.

The guy in this video is an idiot. And of course he is biased as all hell. I would take pretty much everything he says with a grain of salt.

My 686-4, 6" bbl.  Spegel full size round to square butt grips, Bolivian Rosewood.  Two year wait for the grips. 

My 686-4, 6" bbl.  Spegel full size round to square butt grips, Bolivian Rosewood.  Two year wait for the grips. 

Too bad you had to wait 2 whole years to enjoy this with no other guns to take your mind off it.




Oh, wait ...   

They're not my only Spegels.  His HP grips are the best.

My 686-4, 6" bbl.  Spegel full size round to square butt grips, Bolivian Rosewood.  Two year wait for the grips. 

They’re beautiful!!! 

nice grips!

My hands aren't large but the full size Spegels with fingergrooves fit me very well. 

When my next order comes around I'll be ordering more like this one (N frame, K square) and some round butt Ks for my 2.5"  66.

The hard part really was trying to figure out which grip design would work best for me, and choosing the wood.  Since Craig's now in his 60s and is starting to talk about retirement, I figure I'll order the nicest wood he's got, plus I'll be ordering for future guns.  I'm set for HP and 1911 grips, now my focus is on the revolvers.

Ahrends were a good second choice for me but now that Kim is out of business the prices on his grips have escalated into the standard-grade Spegel range.  I won't pay that for Ahrends, I'd rather have Spegels.

my 2.5" 66 with Ahrends Moradillo grips, one of the last sets that Brownells had in stock:




my 66-4 4" magnaported, Ahrends Moradillo grips--probably the last set Brownells had:

Spegels:



N frame square butt extended boot grips, extra-dark Cocobolo (looks almost like ebony).




N frame round butt Boot grips, fairly dark Cocobolo




N frame round butt extended boot grips, Macassar Ebony (old Buck 110 folders had Macassar Ebony handles)

I prefer the checkered grips, the two smooth ones I got off of the internet, used.  Just couldn't pass up a good deal.

They are definitely worth the wait, but most internet auction sites are asking 2-3X list price for them.

Damned crappy cell phone camera--makes them look pixelated.  They're nearly flawless in person, so to speak.

our good ole friend the Yankee Marshall again
I would love to have that Korth, or the 357 Korth, or any Korth