I want to bolt my safe down but we have carpet in the room where it's located. Should we cut out the area where the safe would be or just leave it and drill away? What type of bolt do you recommend? I never seen a bolt like this one.

We don't typically use those types of anchors so I'm not quite sure of the specs on those.

My preference is a wedge bolt or drop in anchor.
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I'd say use the wedge bolt as you won't need to use a setting tool.

Get it in 316 stainless.   SS will be more difficult to tamper with than a comparable carbon steel.

There are many different types of bolt-systems you can use but it all depends on the type of surface you are bolting the safe to and what's underneath the floor. Are you bolting it to a wooden floor or concrete? Is the floor elevated (i.e. 2nd floor), ground level or basement? If it is concrete, you should find out the thickness of the concrete before drilling so you don't accidentally poke through the other side. Preforating the concrete may be a bad idea if you are at ground level or below ground level as you are creating a potential problem with subterranean termites or ground water. Describe what you are bolting it to so that the group may provide you with suggestions applicable to your condition.

There are many different types of bolt-systems you can use but it all depends on the type of surface you are bolting the safe to and what's underneath the floor. Are you bolting it to a wooden floor or concrete? Is the floor elevated (i.e. 2nd floor), ground level or basement? If it is concrete, you should find out the thickness of the concrete before drilling so you don't accidentally poke through the other side. Preforating the concrete may be a bad idea if you are at ground level or below ground level as you are creating a potential problem with subterranean termites or ground water. Describe what you are bolting it to so that the group may provide you with suggestions applicable to your condition.

Underneath the carpet is concrete. I'm not too sure exactly how thick it is but it's probably at least 4" thick.

 

I used ss wedge bolts,got mine @ Hilti.cut the carpet.basic house slabs are 4" some two story houses or heavy load areas use 6-8" slabs.

If you do cut the carpet put some tar paper under the safe where it is in contact with the cement to act as a moisture barrier and keep the bottom of the safe from rusting through any scratches in the paint.  I would recommend you get a hammer drill and drill into the cement and use some simpson strong tie epoxy and the appropriate all thread bolts to go with it. This is the same way houses are bolted to their foundation if the bolts are not put into the cement when it is poured, so, its pretty strong.

Keep in mind if you do not cut the carpet you will probably get some of the pile material wrapped around your drill bit and start pulling the carpet apart in places you don't want it to 

If you do cut the carpet put some tar paper under the safe where it is in contact with the cement to act as a moisture barrier and keep the bottom of the safe from rusting through any scratches in the paint.  I would recommend you get a hammer drill and drill into the cement and use some simpson strong tie epoxy and the appropriate all thread bolts to go with it. This is the same way houses are bolted to their foundation if the bolts are not put into the cement when it is poured, so, its pretty strong.

Keep in mind if you do not cut the carpet you will probably get some of the pile material wrapped around your drill bit and start pulling the carpet apart in places you don't want it to 

I wouldn't do an epoxy anchor.  If you heat the bolt the epoxy breaks down and you can pull the anchor.

A mechanical anchor would be better.

Why not simply cut into the carpet a slighter larger square than the safe? My safe is bolted to concrete, and it's the best thing for it, really.

Why not simply cut into the carpet a slighter larger square than the safe? My safe is bolted to concrete, and it's the best thing for it, really.

Only reason why I ask about the carpet is that if I cut the carpet and sometime in the future we move the safe there will be a huge hole.

Only reason why I ask about the carpet is that if I cut the carpet and sometime in the future we move the safe there will be a huge hole.

Having the safe sit on a hard surface is better then having it sit on carpet but the latter will work. You may have a hard time drilling through the carpet however because it tends to tangle up the drill bit. This happens with the felt lining in the safe, too. Just be prepared and make sure you have a list of cuss words taped above your workspace so you don't run out of expletives.  Other than that, I suggest the following:

1.  Use mechanical anchors instead of epoxy. Its easier, cleaner and some of them can be removed when the time comes to vacate the residence;'
2.  Use a hammer drill otherwise you will be drilling for days before you run out to get yourself a hammer drill. I tried to drill through concrete last night using a carbide masonry bit and a regular drill and the drill barely made a dent after drilling for 30 seconds. I changed to a hammer drill and drilled through 2.5" in 30 seconds.
3.  Use the largest sized anchors that fits the holes in the bottom of your safe. If you want to go ape, buy large anchors and drill larger holes in the bottom of your safe. Just make sure the lengths of the anchors is not greater than the depth of the slab;
4.  Use all of the pukas at the bottom of your safe. If there's a hole in each corner and some in the middle, use them all;
5.  Don't drill through the entire concrete slab or you may unwittingly create a potential problem with subterranean termites or water permeating through the slab;
6.  Install the safe in a location where it would be difficult for someone to push on the safe from any direction. A closet is an example. If a safe is tipped over, the thief will have an easier time prying the doors open with a steel crowbar; and
7.  Tell the wife that you are installing the safe because you want to keep her valuables safe to quench her jealousy over your love for firearms more than her.

Good luck.

1/2"x3"  ss wedge anchor . Just don't forget the anti seize for easier removal .

It's a good idea to set a lag bolt into a wall stud towards the top of the safe to prevent its mass being used as a lever to break free the floor lags, as someone pulls the safe outwards from the top.

Only reason why I ask about the carpet is that if I cut the carpet and sometime in the future we move the safe there will be a huge hole.

A carpet repair guy can fix it for $50.

Cheap insurance.

It's a good idea to set a lag bolt into a wall stud towards the top of the safe to prevent its mass being used as a lever to break free the floor lags, as someone pulls the safe outwards from the top.

If you look at the pullout values on properly installed anchors they are pretty high.  My main concern with lagging to the safe would be compromising it's fire rating by doing so unless you are going to fabricate a band that goes around the top of the safe.