I have a .45 ACP Kimber Custom Target. Anyone can recommend a local gunsmith shop that can tune up and lighten trigger pull? Or can recommend what parts to replace.  Shooting today and my slide began to stick.  The bullet had a hard time going into the feed ramp and did a slow motion feed.  It then fire, again slow motion feed, then fire,  and the slide pulled back and got stuck.  I did the tap, rack, tried press the slide release.  It was truly stuck.  I had to palm the slide forward.  I was using a match .45 acp bullet, new Chip McCormick power mag and Wilson combat magazines.  Less than 500 rounds into the pistol.

I have a .45 ACP Kimber Custom Target. Anyone can recommend a local gunsmith shop that can tune up and lighten trigger pull? Or can recommend what parts to replace.  Shooting today and my slide began to stick.  The bullet had a hard time going into the feed ramp and did a slow motion feed.  It then fire, again slow motion feed, then fire,  and the slide pulled back and got stuck.  I did the tap, rack, tried press the slide release.  It was truly stuck.  I had to palm the slide forward.  I was using a match .45 acp bullet, new Chip McCormick power mag and Wilson combat magazines.  Less than 500 rounds into the pistol.

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I do not do triggers, but I can probably help figure out your feeding problem pretty quick.
You live nearby in Ewa, right?
Bring the gun, bullet heads and some of your ammo up here.

I've had excellent customer service the one and only time (so far, knock wood) I sent back my Kimber.  If you want it done locally, there's no one better for 1911s than Ed Masaki. 737-1212.  I don't know if he's back from Perry yet, but give him a call.

ok thank.

Ed is the man even though hes over 80

I have a .45 ACP Kimber Custom Target. Anyone can recommend a local gunsmith shop that can tune up and lighten trigger pull? Or can recommend what parts to replace.  Shooting today and my slide began to stick.  The bullet had a hard time going into the feed ramp and did a slow motion feed.  It then fire, again slow motion feed, then fire,  and the slide pulled back and got stuck.  I did the tap, rack, tried press the slide release.  It was truly stuck.  I had to palm the slide forward.  I was using a match .45 acp bullet, new Chip McCormick power mag and Wilson combat magazines.  Less than 500 rounds into the pistol.

I was thinking about this more overnight and talked with my friend.  I'm thinking that the problem might be your recoil spring.  When I racked your slide I do not remember it being as hard to rack and lock as mine (16.5# spring in mine which is stock).  FYI I'm the guy who let you use my Ed B. 1911.  If you had a harder time racking mine, then I'm sure the slide issue is the recoil spring.

The failure to eject is something else.  I don't remember if you extractor was external or internal.  If internal it could be a tuning issue with the extractor, if external then I don't know.

My recommendation is still going to be Ed Masaki.  He is the guy in Hawaii to talk to about 1911's.  You could also try Wayne at Pacific Custom, but he's so busy if it's not a simple job, he might not take it on as he's usually up to his eyeballs in stuff to do.

After cleaning, notice wilson combat rubber buffer is in pieces. That's why the slide was stuck. Guide rod has about two inch along the rod with many scratch across facing underneath the barrel. Look like the end of the spring is cutting the rod. I will try to polish the rod and still change the spring.  Now just need research who got the spring in stock.

You talking recoil spring?  If so I got.

First thing I'd do is ditch the recoil buffer pad.  If it doesn't go to pieces it may actually make it impossible to lock the slide back.

After cleaning, notice wilson combat rubber buffer is in pieces. That's why the slide was stuck. Guide rod has about two inch along the rod with many scratch across facing underneath the barrel. Look like the end of the spring is cutting the rod. I will try to polish the rod and still change the spring.  Now just need research who got the spring in stock.

A good cleaning solves many problems. Your recoil spring should still be good and your pistol should run well without the buffer. I say lube, reassemble and try it at the range again. 500 rounds is just about enough to break in a gun. The buffer is a easily replacable item. SEC and WGS has them hanging on the wall. It's cheap insurance to prolong the life of your 1911.

Ed Masaki was not at Camp Perry this year. See him if you really want your gun set up for serious competition shooting.

Just replace the spring to #18. The Kimber stock spring was about 1/2 inch shorter than the #18.   I also got #22 just in case.  Or should I put in the #22. Do I need to change any other springs?

A good cleaning solves many problems. Your recoil spring should still be good and your pistol should run well without the buffer. I say lube, reassemble and try it at the range again. 500 rounds is just about enough to break in a gun. The buffer is a easily replacable item. SEC and WGS has them hanging on the wall. It's cheap insurance to prolong the life of your 1911.

Ed Masaki was not at Camp Perry this year. See him if you really want your gun set up for serious competition shooting.

Teichi his pistol was clean.  If anything it might have been overlubed.  Ran his mags through my 1911 and I don't remember seeing an issue.  If the buffer took a dump and went to pieces it definitely could have gummed up the works.

IMHO the bigger issue is probably his failure to eject the spent casing.  Extractor worked well and the casing was pulled from the chamber but the extractor was holding onto the casing for dear life.

Just replace the spring to #18. The Kimber stock spring was about 1/2 inch shorter than the #18.   I also got #22 just in case.  Or should I put in the #22. Do I need to change any other springs?

Replace to whatever the stock spring was.  My 1911 runs a 16.5# spring stock.  The overall length of the recoil spring might be an issue too.

If you're only at 500 rounds (I'm assuming you bought the pistol new?), then you probably should not have needed to replace the recoil spring for at least another 1,500(?) or so rounds.

What type of ammo ? 230gr Hardball Match loads are stiffer than 185gr SWC Match loads and need different springs. Lighter springs will make the gun fly the brass out more forcefully, but will shock the frame more  Did the ejector look ok?

Ed Masaki won't be fixing gunsfor a while. He suffered a broken rib last week from a fall while picking mangoes.

Ed Masaki won't be fixing gunsfor a while. He suffered a broken rib last week from a fall while picking mangoes.

Damn you mangoes.

You sweet Hayden delight.

Whyyyyyyyyyyyyy