That Norinco ammo most likely has collector value...

These steel cored rounds sell for a premium.


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Gee, maybe I should sell it for its collector value? This is what mine looks like:

That Norinco ammo most likely has collector value...

These steel cored rounds sell for a premium.


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I'll check the headstamp.  But the "profile" pic of the ammo looks like what I have, at least for the lead core ones.  I recall the red ring around the boolit. 

From what I read, 0.50 per round was the going rate for steel core in 2010 and range of 0.62-1.20 per round in some threads dating back to 2012.  That's pretty pricey for AK ammo.

I'll check the headstamp.  But the "profile" pic of the ammo looks like what I have, at least for the lead core ones.  I recall the red ring around the boolit. 

From what I read, 0.50 per round was the going rate for steel core in 2010 and range of 0.62-1.20 per round in some threads dating back to 2012.  That's pretty pricey for AK ammo.

There is a green ring around the primer as well.

There is a green ring around the primer as well.

I think I recall the green ring as well. 

I was really looking forward to testing out the soft points.  In all my 5.56/.223 or 7.62x39 ammo, I have mostly FMJ and some HP in 7.62x39.  I have some BTHP 5.56, but haven't shot that much yet and if so, only on paper.  I really want to test the SP on 4x4 blocks to start.  I recall that 193 will zip clean through 4x4s, but soft points, even seeming cheap stuff will dump all sorts of energy into the 4x4.  I would thing that the combination of heavier 122-123 gr 7.62x39 and soft point would be pretty effective for defensive use. 

That said, the more I am reading about this Norinco ammo, I am growing more interested in the lead core.  I've been reading how the steel core stuff is almost revered, but a big part of that is availability and collector type value as opposed to performance.  Still though, that lead core ammo seems intriguing to me. 

I think I recall the green ring as well. 
 
I was really looking forward to testing out the soft points.  In all my 5.56/.223 or 7.62x39 ammo, I have mostly FMJ and some HP in 7.62x39.  I have some BTHP 5.56, but haven't shot that much yet and if so, only on paper.  I really want to test the SP on 4x4 blocks to start.  I recall that 193 will zip clean through 4x4s, but soft points, even seeming cheap stuff will dump all sorts of energy into the 4x4.  I would thing that the combination of heavier 122-123 gr 7.62x39 and soft point would be pretty effective for defensive use. 

That said, the more I am reading about this Norinco ammo, I am growing more interested in the lead core.  I've been reading how the steel core stuff is almost revered, but a big part of that is availability and collector type value as opposed to performance.  Still though, that lead core ammo seems intriguing to me.

I think your thoughts on the SP ammo is correct. It would make a great self defense round. Definitely much better than any handgun ammo.

Yes, Googling the Norinco ammo brings up a lot of great feedback about the ammo. If Walmart could bring some in I would buy more and not reload for 9mm. 

If you want some to try, just let me know. I can arrange for you to get some 9mm.

Soft point (correction) on left. Head stamp "351 93"

Lead core on right.  Head stamp "31 93"

Guess this ammo is only about 24 years old from early 90s and not 80s.

The lead core has a green ring around the boolit. I thought I saw some with red ring. Maybe it was on some of the rounds that were on these plastic panels that were like stripper clips.


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Lead core on left. Head stamp "351 93"

Lead core on right.  Head stamp "31 93"

Guess this ammo is only about 24 years old from early 90s and not 80s.

The lead core has a green ring around the boolit. I thought I saw some with red ring. Maybe it was on some of the rounds that were on these plastic panels that were like stripper clips.


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I bought my 9mm over about a year period so the headstamps varied. The manufactures marks stayed the same but the date went from 91-93. The first 14k rounds were not reloadable. And the last 1k I bought says reloadable in big letters but it is almost as non reloadable as the previous rounds. At the price I was paying at the time I didn't care if I could reuse the cases. If my memory is correct I was buying 2k round for $200 delivered and 1k rounds for $125 delivered.

Let me know if the brass for the AK ammo is easily reloadable. In this day and age of picking up once fired brass at the range from those who don't reload Is so common these days it doesn't even pay to save brass that has been reloaded more than a few times.

Forgot to post the pic.

I bought my 9mm over about a year period so the headstamps varied. The manufactures marks stayed the same but the date went from 91-93. The first 14k rounds were not reloadable. And the last 1k I bought says reloadable in big letters but it is almost as non reloadable as the previous rounds. At the price I was paying at the time I didn't care if I could reuse the cases. If my memory is correct I was buying 2k round for $200 delivered and 1k rounds for $125 delivered.

Let me know if the brass for the AK ammo is easily reloadable. In this day and age of picking up once fired brass at the range from those who don't reload Is so common these days it doesn't even pay to save brass that has been reloaded more than a few times.

I only shoot steel cases AK ammo. Brass too pricey for me.


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I only shoot steel cases AK ammo. Brass too pricey for me.


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Really? AK brass is pricey? Probably steel case is so cheap that brass is not common?

Sometimes while at the range I will see someone shooting brass AK ammo. I guess I should have been asking to pick it up? I could sell it off or trade.

Really? AK brass is pricey? Probably steel case is so cheap that brass is not common?

Sometimes while at the range I will see someone shooting brass AK ammo. I guess I should have been asking to pick it up? I could sell it off or trade.

From the discussion in Stang's AR build thread, I saw something like 0.50-1.00 per round. I want AK ammo in the 0.2-0.3 per round range. Cheaper than 5.56 or it loses some "value", at least in my mind as cheap ammo.


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I just picked up some AE brass 7.62x39 for $18/20 rounds
Federal lead tip was $30/20 rounds

I heard some people say that tula and wolf are the same. Is that true?

Two offerings from Wolf on the left only says made in Russia, Tula in the middle and Brown Bear on the right.

Correction brown bear not silver bear.
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What is your cleaning routine?

I also haven't shot my Arsenal much.  One time I just wiped down everything with a cleaning rag, ran boresnake, and then greased up.  Another time, I ran bore brushes and patches, but don't think that's something I would do often.  I did clean and inspect the piston rod, but also something that I don't envision doing very often. 
I've shot lots of Tula steel cased 9 mm and to me, that stuff is awesome.  Cheap, functioned well, etc.  Maybe it would be hard on say an extractor, but I didn't notice any ill effects.  And an extractor can be easily replaced. 

Sucks that the .357 Mag seemed to have problems.

my AK cleaning routine isn't anything special.  I clean it like any other rifle after I get home from the range, or the day after at the latest if I have to rush off to do something right after.  in such case i'll soak parts in ballistol till I get to it
i'll disassemble everything down to the bolt, spring, piston rod.  do the patches wet and dry and bore brush until its clean, maybe 3-6 passes or more depends how much I shoot.  i'll clean the piston rod, and scrub it with a scotch brite green scrubber until its clean, wipe down the spring.  clean in the gas tube.  I wont disassemble it bc I can just shove some patches in there around a big bore brush and then a smaller brush to get deeper inside, and wipe it down and dry it. then i'll spray and wipe inside the receiver with some ballistol just to get dust and any powder that might get it there.  I've never disassembled the bolt, just soak it and scrub it with a brush and wipe it.  It just keeps working so I haven't broke it down yet.  that process could take an hour if I take my time, less if I hurry up.
I don't like to take more than 2 firearms to the range at a time bc I know after I get home i'll have to clean them.

my AK cleaning routine isn't anything special.  I clean it like any other rifle after I get home from the range, or the day after at the latest if I have to rush off to do something right after.  in such case i'll soak parts in ballistol till I get to it
i'll disassemble everything down to the bolt, spring, piston rod.  do the patches wet and dry and bore brush until its clean, maybe 3-6 passes or more depends how much I shoot.  i'll clean the piston rod, and scrub it with a scotch brite green scrubber until its clean, wipe down the spring.  clean in the gas tube.  I wont disassemble it bc I can just shove some patches in there around a big bore brush and then a smaller brush to get deeper inside, and wipe it down and dry it. then i'll spray and wipe inside the receiver with some ballistol just to get dust and any powder that might get it there.  I've never disassembled the bolt, just soak it and scrub it with a brush and wipe it.  It just keeps working so I haven't broke it down yet.  that process could take an hour if I take my time, less if I hurry up.
I don't like to take more than 2 firearms to the range at a time bc I know after I get home i'll have to clean them.

Thanks.  I did all sorts of research on how to clean ARs when I bought my first.  Not much for AKs.  Not that it would be difficult, just wondering everyone's personal preference. 

For ARs, I started out cleaning thoroughly.  Now, it's much quicker.  Sometimes, I will spend more time to clean more thoroughly and inspect parts, but don't spend nearly as much time as I used to.  Kind of like how you tend to spend more time caring for a car when it's new and then that sort of fades as you go along.  At least for me. 

The one time I cleaned the piston rod, I found that steel wool (made for gun maintenance) worked well.  Yeah, probably not needed but in my mind, good to be able to clean and inspect every so often.  Kind of like 10,000 miles checks for your car.  I do the same when I clean the AR bolt and that steel wool works well.  I used to clean it more thoroughly, but now, I usually just use the scraper once in a while, wipe down and good to go again. 

Two offerings from Wolf on the left only says made in Russia, Tula in the middle and Brown Bear on the right.

Correction brown bear not silver bear.
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I think the WPA stuff I have is the same as the black box of the Wolf that you have.  I've seen the brown box a lot as well.  I've shot some of the Silver Bear and that seemed like good stuff.  I've seen Brown Bear as well. 

Any particular preference?  For AK ammo, I generally go on price.  I have HP now, but I would be just fine with FMJ as well.  I'd like to get more soft point ammo though. 

Reloading AK rounds is problematic because the rifle flings them further, especially in the grass. Plus the dust cover and extractor is particularly hard on the brass. Seems to work as long as the glue on the bumper holds up.

Carolina Brass has range brass for sale if you are interested. I have done business with them before and they are good people.
http://www.carolinabrass.net/

$25/100
https://www.etsy.com/listing/472478276/762x39-ak-range-brass-100-pieces?ref=shop_home_active_17

$115/500
https://www.etsy.com/listing/472477764/762x39-ak-range-brass-500-pieces?ref=shop_home_active_3

Reloading AK rounds is problematic because the rifle flings them further, especially in the grass. Plus the dust cover and extractor is particularly hard on the brass. Seems to work as long as the glue on the bumper holds up.

Don't get an H&K G3/91 or a clone of one then.


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